The Soulof Banaras

The pre-dawn waking of Vishwanath

Stand in the hush before dawn as the first aarti of the day awakens Baba Vishwanath. We handle the queue, the timing and the walk back through sleeping lanes.

A private abhishek of Shiva

A Vedic ritual bathing the Shivalinga with milk, honey and Ganga jal, led by a temple pandit with mantras explained in plain words.

Sunrise at Assi, music and aarti

The city's morning ritual at Assi Ghat: Vedic chanting, the dawn aarti, raga and yoga, followed by a slow boat up the waking river.

Evening worship of the river

Fire, conch and bells at Dashashwamedh. Watch the great aarti from the water or a reserved spot on the ghat, with the story of every gesture.

Sunrise practice by the Ganga

A gentle asana, pranayama and meditation session on the stone steps as first light falls across the river.

Dawn journey along the ghats

Row out at the crack of dawn as bathers, priests and washermen open the day. Includes a stop at a riverside shrine if you wish.

Daytime river cruise

Riverside life and ritual amble on through the day. Drift past palaces, akharas and cremation grounds with stories at every ghat.

Sunset ride ending at the aarti

Cover the crescent of ghats from Assi to Raj Ghat in golden light, then anchor for an unobstructed view of the evening Ganga Aarti.

Inderneel's spiritual storytelling walk

Secret shrines and sacred spaces most visitors never find, with the history and legends dug up by our guide, one hidden temple at a time.

The best of Banaras in one walk

Our widest lens on the city, threading ghats, temples and bazaars into a single story of the world's oldest living city.

Small plates of Chowk

Kachori-sabzi, malaiyo in winter, lassi in kulhads and paan to finish. A tasting walk through Dashashwamedh and Chowk.

The maze of the old city

Few find their way through the spidery galis behind the river. We do, every day, and know who lives behind each carved door.

Tulsidas country near Assi

A mystical landscape of kunds and temples around Assi, where Tulsidas wrote and Hanuman is said to have appeared.

In and out of the galis

Pop in and out of pilgrim lanes for sudden glimpses of the Ganga, following the route pilgrims have walked for centuries.

The sacred feminine of Kashi

From pond to temple, the Goddess reigns in Banaras. Meet Annapurna, Vishalakshi, Durga and the Devis of the street corner.

Looms of the Banarasi sari

Sit beside weavers at their handlooms, then visit lacquer-toy makers and other craftspeople keeping old skills alive.

Manikarnika after dark

An evening walk through the philosophy of death in Kashi, the eternal fires of Manikarnika and the tantric shrines of the night.

Where the Buddha first taught

Ten kilometres out of the city, among deer-park ruins and the Dhamek Stupa, where the Buddha gave his first sermon.

Circle Kashi by vehicle

Trace the pilgrimage ring around the sacred city and visit marvellous ancient temples on its edge that you would never see otherwise.

Chunar Fort & Ramnagar Palace

Drive to the ancient Chunar fortress and its Mughal-era sites, then return via the palace of the Kashi Naresh at Ramnagar.

Vindhyachal & Mirzapur ghats

A day out to the ancient shrines of Vindhyachal and the rarely seen ghats of Mirzapur, deep in the Devi's country.

Full-day & multi-day Kashi

Combine any boats, walks, rituals and yoga into a private day or several. Anandavana, the forest of bliss, was Kashi's oldest name.